Wagyu Knowledge Compact

Wagyu explained by meat sommelier Dirk Freyberger

As a meat sommelier, you are an ambassador for enjoyment. The main aim is to win over consumers to see good, tasty and ethically produced meat. "Better to have less meat and instead good meat" should be our attitude. When it comes to Wagyu, people are not so sure. Many legends and half-knowledge surround this exceptionally rare and, above all, exclusive meat. But what is Wagyu anyway?

What is Wagyu

Wagyu translates as Japanese (Wa) beef (Gyu). Outside of Japan, Wagyu is the name for meat from Japanese black cattle. In Japan, there are four types that are considered Wagyu: Japanese Black, Japanese Brown, Japanese Polled and Japanese Shorthorn. Japanese Black is the dominant variety here, accounting for around 90%. This delicacy from Japan could only be bought and eaten in Japan until 2014. This is probably one of the reasons why Wagyu is still very exclusive and rare today.

perfection of breeding and husbandry

What actually distinguishes Wagyu cattle from other breeds such as Angus , Hereford or Simmental ? Quite simply, it's the special genetics combined with the unusual rearing and husbandry of the animals. Anyone who expects farmers to massage their animals with rice wine and pour beer into their feed is mistaken. Because of the limited space on the island, most cattle on the island are not able to graze freely in the pasture. Wagyu cattle also spend most of their time in the stable. One special thing about rearing the most expensive cattle in the world is the special concentrate feed based on grain, beet, potatoes and pomace. The composition is guarded by each breeding operation, kept strictly secret and passed down from generation to generation. This recipe, combined with precisely documented feed quantities, forms the basis of success for every breeding operation.

Although the animals are kept in stables, the care provided by the farmers is exceptional. A farmer has around 6 to 10 cattle at a time, and he looks after them all day long. Grooming and, for example, letting them run around or walking them on a leash play a major role in the animals' well-being. The more comfortable the animal feels, the better the quality of the meat will be later.

How do I recognize the quality of Wagyu

With Wagyu, the marbling of the meat is particularly important. It is not only important that there is a lot of fat, but also that it is evenly and finely distributed. The fat should also be as much intramuscular as possible and not subcutaneous. The degree of marbling is measured in the unit BMS (Beef Marbling Standard) or MS and categorized from 1-12. Good Wagyu starts at a BMS of 8 and a BMS of 12 is very rare. A further categorization can be found for Wagyu beef at grades A1 to A5. This value is used to evaluate the fat color and meatiness of the carcass. Good Wagyu with a BMS of 8 or higher must be an A4, but is usually an A5.

Ultimately, the quality also depends on the taste and melting point of the fat. Of course, you can't tell this when you buy it. In contrast to visual characteristics such as the degree of marbling. But a good indicator is the brand. Only certified and often award-winning companies are allowed to produce "brand" meat. In these competitions, not only the consistency and marbling are evaluated, but also the taste. That's why our champion brand Wagyu, for example, is an excellent choice! It doesn't matter whether you choose striploin, tenderloin or other cuts and refined products . Each one is a real treat.

Why is Japanese black cattle so expensive

Although the export of Japanese Wagyu meat is now permitted, the export of live animals, eggs or sperm from the animals is strictly prohibited. From the mid-1970s to the 1990s, around 220 animals from Japanese breeding were exported as eggs, sperm or live animals for scientific purposes, mainly to the USA. All animals outside Japan today are descended from these animals.

What is Wagyu Cross or Wagyu F1

It has already been mentioned that very little genetic material has left Japan, but since the demand for the quality and special characteristics of Wagyu beef has become very popular and enjoys an excellent reputation, companies specializing in Wagyu meat production have decided to carry out cross breeding. This means that, for example, an Angus cow is inseminated with Wagyu semen. The resulting calf is a hybrid of 50% Angus and 50% Wagyu. The advantage of this breeding method is that, although there is very little genetic material, a much larger number of offspring can suddenly be produced. The disadvantage, of course, is that foreign genetic material also washes out the Wagyu genetics. But with the right combination of breeds, a very good degree of marbling can be achieved and optimally coordinated feeding also highlights the genetics and the outstanding taste of the Wagyu. A Wagyu Cross or F1 is a cheaper way of enjoying Wagyu.

What does Japanese black beef taste like

Wagyu beef is characterized by its juiciness, tenderness and intense umami flavor. The pronounced marbling in the meat ensures a rich, full-bodied flavor. The fat of the animals has up to 50% higher proportion of unsaturated fatty acids (in contrast to other cattle breeds). This means it has a very low melting point and therefore there is a very special mouthfeel when eating Wagyu. The fat melts at body temperature, creating a mouthfeel similar to chocolate. The piece of meat melts gently in the mouth and spreads its intense flavor like balm throughout the entire mouth, and it is precisely this all-encompassing umami kick that is so special about Wagyu beef.

How to prepare it properly

Due to the high fat content and the low melting point of the fat, it is a great challenge to prepare Wagyu properly. In Japanese cuisine, it is usually sliced ​​very thinly and then either eaten raw or grilled very briefly or, for example, briefly dipped in broth in Shabu Shabu, a type of broth fondue.

Here in Europe, or rather Germany, we mainly want to enjoy the meat as a steak. The meat sommelier's recommendation: Caramelize the relatively thinly sliced ​​steaks at very high heat, e.g. in a heavy pan or an OFB (e.g. a Gustos ), without cooking the inside of the steak too much. This way you can fully enjoy the special umami taste in combination with the tenderly melting fat.

If you're really hungry now, you should check out this playlist on FreybergerTV, then you'll have to order!